Painting Wood Furniture {Pinners Class PART FOUR} TUTORIAL

Welcome back to our How to paint/refinish furniture class! Sorry about the long break there has been a lot going on but I have not forgotten about you, so I am back and ready to teach you how to paint that piece of furniture you have been wanting to do forever.  How are you liking this series so far? Is it helpful? What questions do you have?  To catch Part one of this series GO HERE. Part one is an intro to me, the class, why I started painting furniture, and all about how you can do it too. Part two is helping you figure out the style you want you can find that HERE. Part three is very important it is the shopping list for all the supplies you will need, where to get them and why I recommend the ones I do, you can find that HERE.  Check them out before you go on.

Ok now that we have all the info we need and the supplies lets start painting. Below I am going to give the steps for spray paint, rolling on, staining, whitewashing, and I will also talk about sanding and glazing. To find out what your style is and which one you want to do read about that HERE.

The very first steps in any piece of wood furniture that you will be painting is Washing and sanding. I just wash my pieces of furniture with a rag and soapy water, then I make sure it is all dry. Once it is dry I get out my 220 grit sand paper, or electric sander and sand the whole thing until the previous finish is off, it is smooth, all gunk is off and all the scratches and dings are smooth. Then once it is all sanded yo are going to wash it all again using the soaping water and rag, to get all the saw dust off of the piece before we go on, then just let it dry or wipe dry.

Then you will prime you piece, I like to use the zinsser bullseye spray paint primer, find out more in PART 3.  I simply just spray the primer all over the piece getting everywhere I can. This can be one light coat and that will be good enough to paint over. You do not need to cover the entire thing perfectly just enough to put a layer on for the paint to bond to. I love this primer because it is so misty and covers so well and it doesn't run which is nice, but just like any spray you will want to make sure you are at least 12 inches away while spraying and do light smooth and quick lines. Most primers will dry within 30 minutes. Once it is dry you will then do a light sand to make sure it is all smooth for painting and then wash it one more time, letting it dry completely.

Do you want to spray paint or roll on? Find out which one is best for you and your piece HERE. 

SPRAY PAINT

Spray light multiple light coats letting it dry and sanding between each coat. With spray paint you want to take it slow to prevent runs and blotches. It will take more time to do it this way and more coats but it is worth it, because if you take it too fast you can get runs and then you have to sand them down and it takes more time in the long run. For most pieces depending on the color I do 3-5 coats of spray paint to get the right coverage. Remembering to let is dry, sand and wipe clean between wash coat. 

And there you go you have your spray painted piece if you are wanting to leave it a plan color with no glazing or sanding techniques you will then simply go on to the last step of sealing it. If you are wanting to use those techniques go to the end of the post to see how to do that before sealing  your furniture.

To seal my furniture I use the Minwax Polycrylic satin. I love this finish because it does not yellow it is crystal clear and it stays that way over time even over white.  It comes in cans or spray. I do 2-3 coats of the finish spray depending on how much use and traffic the piece will have. Let is dry for at least 48 hours before handling and then you are done.

ROLL ON

now for some roll on. This is my dresser for my room well one of them we had two huge dressers to redo and spray paint was not only going to be more expensive, but I felt much more comfortable rolling on something this huge. Also it was mostly flat with only a couple details that were easily brushed on and rolled over just fine. First of course you will wash, sand, wash, prime, sand and wash just like explain above before you go on to painting.

Next you will take your paint brush and get into all the detail with the paint first. Let that dry. Once it is dry you can begin to roll on.

Remember you will need a small sponge smooth roller, your paint and a container like above. For this project since it was so big I used a bigger container for the paint so I wasn't constantly pouring more in.

  Then you will just roll it on. First you will load up your roller, then roll it over the little bumppies on the container so it isn't too much. Then roll it onto your surface covering the whole thing. It doesn't have to be perfect at first because then once it is covered you will take you roller with no extra paint on it and lightly go over the whole area you just rolled on in nice smooth over lapping lines. This is so when it does you don't see any brush strokes or lines on the piece and it just looks smooth. The first coat will not be covering everything you will need to do 2-4 coats to get the right coverage. Make sure that you let it dry, lightly sand and wash between every coat of paint. 

And there you go you have your rolled on piece if you are wanting to leave it a plan color with no glazing or sanding techniques you will then simply go on to the last step of sealing it. If you are wanting to use those techniques go to the end of the post to see how to do that before sealing  your furniture.For my dressers I wanted them to look antiqued so I sanded them to find out how I did that read under the sanding title, if you are leaving it plain read below.

To seal my furniture I use the Minwax Polycrylic satin. I love this finish because it does not yellow it is crystal clear and it stays that way over time even over white.  It comes in cans or spray. I do 2-3 coats of the finish spray depending on how much use and traffic the piece will have. Let is dry for at least 48 hours before handling and then you are done.

 SANDING

Sanding is for an antiqued worn look. That is just what I was wanting for my dressers. I wanted it really worn but you could do as little or as much as your taste and style is allowing. You are going to want to do the sanding after you have painted the whole thing and before you seal it. So your paint has been dry for at least 24-48 hours now you can get sanding. You can use sand paper  or a sanding block for smaller pieces, since this was so big I used a sanding block for some and my electric sander for some depending on where I was sanding. First you are going to want to sand the edges until you can see the wood underneath or the dark color you had underneath hat you want to show. These dressers were already dark under so I didn't have to do anything before. If your piece is light under and you want it dark you can stain it before you paint, paint it brown before you paint your main color, or you can stain it after in the places you sanded.

Ok so you sanded the edges that is the most basic you can leave it like that if that is what you are wanting. For more you can then sand the details. For this dresser there were little rectangle cutouts that I sanded down and it have some details on the drawers that I sanded to make the details pop. If that is your style stop there. Or like me if you really want it antiqued you can go a step further and sand just random spots here and there on the flat surfaces to make it look old and that it had gotten beat up in several years and moves and has a story.

Now that you have it sanded as little or as much as you were going for now it is time to seal it.
To seal my furniture I use the Minwax Polycrylic satin. I love this finish because it does not yellow it is crystal clear and it stays that way over time even over white.  It comes in cans or spray. I do 2-3 coats of the finish spray depending on how much use and traffic the piece will have. Let is dry for at least 48 hours before handling and then you are done.

GLAZING

If you want more of the glazing look to have the details pop you will need either a glaze or a stain will work, a brush and a rag. You will glaze your piece after you painted it and let it sit for at least 24-48 hours and before you seal it. To glaze you will take your glaze or stain and paint it into the grooves of the details with your paint brush, let it sit for  couple seconds and then wipe it off with a clean, dry rag. This will wipe away the excess but keep the stain in the detail making them pop. You might have to repeat this process a couple times letting it dry between each coat to get the desired darkness.  Once you have it the way you want it to look let it dry completely and seal it.

To seal my furniture I use the Minwax Polycrylic satin. I love this finish because it does not yellow it is crystal clear and it stays that way over time even over white.  It comes in cans or spray. I do 2-3 coats of the finish spray depending on how much use and traffic the piece will have. Let is dry for at least 48 hours before handling and then you are done.

No those are the traditional ways to refinish or paint a piece of furniture with either spray paint or roll on and either kept a plain color, sanded or glazed and then sealed. Yay you are done. Unless you are wanting to do something a little different in that case lets talk a little bit about staining and whitewashing. Check out my post HERE to see which one is best for what pieces and for what styles. 

Stain

For my kitchen table I really wanted the country look so I spray painted white like I showed above and then I stained the table top and chair seats.These already had been sealed so first I washed them, sanded them, and washed them again.

Now it is ready to be stained. My favorite is Minwax brand I love all their colors, but I use early American the most. I dipped my brush into the stain and painted it on the whole top and sides of the seats and table top then I let it soak in for about a minute and then wiped off the excess with a clean cloth. You do not want to just leave the stain on to dry like you would a paint. That is not what stain is meant for in fact it will not dry it will get sticky. If you wipe it off and it isn't as dark as you would like you can just repeat the steps letting it dry between each coat until you get the desired color.

Once you are at your color you can seal it. To seal my furniture I use the Minwax Polycrylic satin. I love this finish because it does not yellow it is crystal clear and it stays that way over time even over white.  It comes in cans or spray. I do 2-3 coats of the finish spray depending on how much use and traffic the piece will have. Let is dry for at least 48 hours before handling and then you are done.

Whitewash

First you will wash, sand and wash your piece that you are whitewashing. Next you will need your mixture of 1 part white paint to 2 parts water. You will also need a brush and rag.

For my piece it was a rustic headboard made out of pallets so I wanted it to look like I got old white barn wood from all over so I wanted them different shades. So I did each board different coats, but of course you could also make this all the same look.

Paint on your white wash just like you would any paint, of course this is much thinner. Make sure to paint it on small sections at a time or it will dry too quickly. Then you will take a clean dry rag and spread the white wash around removing all the excess. A small amount goes a long way. Then move on to the next section. This will give you the thin white washed look.

Once you are at your color you can seal it. To seal my furniture I use the Minwax Polycrylic satin. I love this finish because it does not yellow it is crystal clear and it stays that way over time even over white.  It comes in cans or spray. I do 2-3 coats of the finish spray depending on how much use and traffic the piece will have. Let is dry for at least 48 hours before handling and then you are done. 

To find my full whitewashing tutorial go HERE.

Eeek and there you have it you have gotten the courage to paint your furniture, you know what style you want, you got all your supplies, you painted it and it is all done. And hopefully you are so in love with it. I am so so proud of you and I am sure you are feeling pretty good right now too. Still a little nervous and have some concerns before you want to tackle this big of a project? then make sure to come back for PART 5 and we will address those concerns.  This is to wrap up the class and answer some of your questions. Also remember if you have specific questions leave them in the comments or email them to me and I will address them in the next post. 

Don't forget to PIN this sucker as well as the rest of the series for the full class.

Happy Painting! 

PART ONE-Intro

PART TWO-Finding your style
PART THREE-style
PART FOUR- steps

 Don't forget to follow me on Instagram

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Painting Wood Furniture {Pinners Class PART THREE} Supplies

Welcome back to our How to paint/refinish furniture class! How are you liking this series so far? Is it helpful? What questions do you have?  To catch Part one of this series GO HERE. Part one is an intro to me, the class, why I started painting furniture, and all about how you can do it too. Part two is helping you figure out the style you want you can find that HERE. Check them out before you go on. 

It is time for us to talk supplies and go shopping. Above you will find my list for supplies and below we will be talking about each supply,why it is important, the brands I like and where I get them.

First up of course is your Piece of wood furniture. See PART ONE of the series to see where I find my pieces and what is the most cost effective. This one was only $10 at the DI but most of mine are FREE. FREE is the best right!

Next up is paint. See PART TWO of the series to know when to use spray paint and when to use canned paint.  If you are going to spray paint first of all make sure to get it at a hardware store {i.e. Homedepot, lowes} or walmart they are only about $3.50 per can avoid getting them at the craft stores they are $7 and up. Next tip if you have to get them at the craft store make sure to use a coupon almost all of them have them now. For furniture I like to use the satin. What brand do I like the best? I pretty much like all the name brands. I have used Krylon, Rustoleum, and Valspar and like all of them. It usually just depends on what store I am at or what color I want for what brand I get.

If you choose to roll on. I like to get the semi gloss indoor paint. My best tip is to get the small paint samples when you are doing smaller pieces because you will not need a lot and it will save you money. You can get them in whatever color you want just ask them to mix one up for you and they are only $2.50-$3 a piece. The sofa table picture above only took two paint sample jars so I only spent $5 in paint for that table. Awesome deal and no wasted paint. Also another great option with cheaper can paint is to check the Mis-tints in the paint department. Mis-tints are the mixed paints that they mixed wrong and they can't sell for full price they are 50% -75% off. They are random colors so this is all about luck. The first dresser we painted for my son we painted blue and we just so happened to find the perfect blue in a mis-tint, it was a whole gallon for only $5.

If you are spray painting you do not need these next supplies pictured above but they are a must for canned paint. This is how we are getting the paint onto the piece of furniture the smoothest and easiest way. You will need a small roller, a small sponge to put on the roller and a small tray. Also don't forget an angled paint brush. Usually you can get all three of these in one pack which is a great way to get the best deal on it all. For the sponger roller you want the smooth one the packaging say it is for doors and cabinets that is the one you want. Do not get the textured fuzzy kind this will leave the paint of your furniture bumpy and we want smooth as butta!

Next one of the very most important, well they are all important, but one of my favorites is the primer. Primer is a must. It will save you time, money, it will look the best and the primer is what helps the paint to bond to the wood furniture. DO NOT SKIP THIS SUPPLY! You will use less paint to cover up the furniture and your color will be truer to color on the white primer versus the brown of the wood. Now that we know how important the primer is lets talk what primer to get. Zinsser bullseye 123 is hands down the best primer out there. Kilz has nothing agest this stuff. It is the perfect light mist, it goes on so smooth and it covers like magic. I promise you are saving time if you just get this kind. I have tried so many, take my word for it. The only place I am able to find this primer is Lowes and Amazon. 

Next up your finish. Also a very important supply. Do not I repeat do not go out and just buy a clear spray paint and think that is a good finish. When it comes to the finish you will want to pay a little more especially if it is a high traffic piece or you have kids. You are working hard on refinishing this piece and you want it to last. The one that I recommend is the minwax Polycrylic crystal clear finish in the satin. Not Polyurithane, polycrylic.  The polycrylic is also non-yellowing this is safe to use on your white projects. Yay!This can be found at your hardware store and even Walmart carries it.

Next up Sand paper. Yes you will sand every piece. We want it smooth and all that extra stuff off of it before we paint. You will want 220 grit sand paper for these wood furniture projects. This is a fine grit that will not scratch the wood. There are many options when it comes to sanding. Lets talk about them all from left to right.

Your first option is good ol fashioned sand paper. This is found just about anywhere and does the trick. The paper is also good for smaller, detailed places.  This will take the longest however to get your whole piece sanded. The next option up would be the sand block.  This one will prevent you from getting burned fingers like the friction from the paper can cause it is easier to handle and it is a little quicker. The next option up from the block would be the sander with the handle This one you will need sand paper cut to fit and then attach it onto the tool. This one is great because it encompasses more space and it is easier to maneuver with the handle. And the best option that I use is the electric sander. This one is a must and you will not believe it but that sucker right there I got at Walmart for only $15 and I have been using it for four years with many many projects an it is still doing just as good as the day I bought it. Get the electric you will not be sorry. So much quicker, and it does the work for you.

The next few supplies are only needed for certain styles or just great to have on hand for special times...

Minwax stain is great for the pieces you are wanting to stain or glaze. I like to use the stain instead of the actual glaze because it is easier to work with and less thick. My favorite stain is the minwax and you can find this at your local hardware store, walmart or on amazon. My favorite color is the Early American, but they have many many options including color stain. It also comes in all different sizes so you can find the amount needed for your project.

These supplies are what you are needing if you are whitewashing a piece. Some white paint, water and a plastic container. You will need one part paint to two parts water, mix it together in your plastic container and  it is all ready to go.

A chisel is rarely used but a great thing to have if you are needing to scrap off a lot of layers. If you have a piece that has already been painted this is a quicker way to get the paint off and then you will sand it down to get off the rest.

This is a great tool to have if you are spray painting but again not a must. It is a spray paint gun and only about $3 at your local hardware store or walmart. It just attaches to your spray paint can and makes it easier to get a nice even coverage.

Some other supplies you will need are:
-Rags- Can be old wash clothes or old T-shirt you will need these for cleaning, and or staining/glazing/whitewashing
-Soap and water for washing
-baby wipes
-latex gloves- not a must but can be nice
-A drop cloth or old sheet

Ok there we go I have given you your supply list, where to get them and how to get the most out of your buck. Write them down or print off the list and go shopping. Then come back and we will get started in the next post.

Stay tuned for part 4...The STEPS! This is the post you have all been waiting for now that you have the confidence, are excited, know your style and have all your supplies lets get started. And don't forget to PIN this sucker as well as the rest of the series for the full class.

Happy learning and shopping! 

PART ONE

PART TWO 
PART THREE 

 Don't forget to follow me on Instagram

@WHITNEYULRICH

to see all my fun pics, my real life, fitness, fashion ideas

and sneak peaks of what I've been working on

Thank you for your support, for reading and for following

Make sure to check out my other social media sites and follow along

{Links below}